International Smoke

Wonder what’s burning in Citycentre? It’s the wood at International Smoke where they smoke and grill meals over open flames.

By Tom Flynn • Photos by Shannon O’Hara

International Smoke is owned by a couple of foodie celebrities, Celebrity chef Michael Mina and Food Network star Ayesha Curry (who happens to be married to Golden State Warriors star Steph Curry). The restaurant initially received bad social media reviews from pouting Houston Rockets fans still burning (pun intended) from the season ending defeat delivered by the Warriors. After some research, the reviews were proven unfounded and the only bad thing about Steph Curry is that he plays for the Warriors instead of the Rockets. Still, Ayesha ruffled some feathers when she opened a business in H Town.

Believe it or not, it smells like smoke in the restaurant. High-flying flames in the big open kitchen add some ambiance to the lofty interior as cooks run up and down the line flipping meat. Stained concrete floors, brick and cement pillars (some with graffiti) and dark, comfortable furniture contrast nicely with the fires.

The beef comes from 44 Farms just north of Austin where they’ve been producing prime and choice Angus cuts of meat for over a century. We order some, shaking. The Waygu Shaking Beef appetizer is cooked tableside in a cast iron dish with an Asian sauce. It’s accompanied with lettuce leaves, pickled carrots and radishes, fresh jalapeño and fried peanuts. Diners pile the beef on the lettuce, add a little sesame ginger sauce and roll their own lettuce wraps. The dish is fun, interactive and delicious, $16.

The Asian influences continue with Korean Smoked Short Ribs. It’s a large portion of meat served over sticky rice with a side of cold kimchi. The bone-in ribs are coated in a barbecue rub and Korean barbecue sauce and smoked until the exterior looks and tastes like burned end brisket. Inside, the meat is tender and juicy, $36. In contrast, the smoked sausage plate was just that, three types of sausage, mashed potatoes, stone ground mustard and an interesting dollop of fennel jam; $26. We ordered Green Papaya Slaw to lighten up our meal, plus another batch to take home, $9.

The menu is pretty extensive. Charcoal grilled oysters, clams and shrimp; steaks and lots of ribs; redfish on the half shell and fried snapper; duck wings, chicken and more. Most appetizers are $15–$20; entrees $30–$50 and sides $9–$15. There was one Cabernet Sauvignon for $55 (which was good), the rest were $100–$400. Fall is here and they have a large patio to hang out on. If it’s too hot or cold, you can enjoy the large, indoor bar.

Even though I’m a big Rockets fan, I’ll be back to International Smoke. Hopefully I can throw a Rockets victory party there at the end of this season; I’ll invite the Curry’s. H