The Joys of Japan

A jaunt to Japan proves wonderfully eye-opening for Andrea Stroh

For my family, this past Thanksgiving was less about the pilgrims than it was about a pilgrimage. We traveled to Tokyo, Japan, in search of the house where my mother’s family lived in 1948 when she was only 2 years old.

My maternal grandfather was in the Counter-Intelligence Division and was stationed with MacArthur as part of the occupation forces. They lived in the part of town that had been rebuilt by the U.S. military; when my grandmother passed away this past year, we found the map of Tokyo that she used to navigate her stay. She had marked places of interest such as their house, the bowling alley, the grocery store and even “where Tojo hanged.” Unfortunately, my grandfather became terminally ill while in Japan and passed away in 1949; so, in attempt to get in touch with our heritage and their parents, my mother, her sister, my father and I took off for Tokyo armed with a 55-year-old map and a GPS system.

Having heard for years how expensive and unfriendly Japan was, not mentioning unpalatable in terms of the cuisine (other than what I anticipated was going to be exceptional sushi), I must admit our experience ranked among the top I have had in my extensive travels. Not only were the Japanese some of the friendliest people we had encountered, the food was fantastic and most things were less expensive than I’ve found in Houston. Once you broke through the stiff veneer of politeness and manners that ferociously grips these extraordinarily gracious people, they are effusive and bubbly with a wonderful sense of humor.

I must admit, however, that I had brought along a secret weapon that most tourists to Japan are lacking – I had Santa Claus. My father was working as the Santa Claus at the mall; and he brought along his Santa hat, white fluffy beard, and a belly that shakes like a bowl full of jelly. When we landed at Narita airport, he was literally chased down by a couple of teenage girls, yelling “Santa-san” and trying to catch a picture of him with their camera phones.

Narita is almost 45 minutes outside of Tokyo, and the airport shuttle bus is the cheapest and easiest way into town and to almost all local hotels and major train stations. The bus also offers a first glimpse at the rules governing public behavior that make living with 127 million other people on a tiny little island bearable. As the bus departed the airport, there was a recording giving the requisite warnings about standing up while the bus was moving, but it ended with an admonishment not to use your cell phone “because it annoys your neighbor.”

Oh, what I wouldn’t give to have a rule like that abided by while dining in some of Houston’s tonier restaurants. The astonishing thing was that everyone not only followed the cell phone rule on the bus, but almost everywhere else in Japan, including the subways and the trains. In fact, the quietness was almost eerie at times when you were standing on a crowded train platform or inside a packed subway. No one ever made eye contact or small talk on any of the public transportation, and our casual conversations on the train made us stick out more than towering 6 to 8 inches over the average citizen.

We took an organized half-day city tour our first morning in town, which hit all of the Tokyo high points. (Grayline, $45) Our first stop was the Tokyo Tower, which was designed as a replica of the Eiffel Tower with an unfortunate orange and white paint job. It does, however, offer exceptional views of Tokyo from its observation deck 250 meters in the air. You can even see Mt. Fuji from the top, if you are lucky enough to have it break through the cloud cover. We had no such luck, and in fact, spent our trip trying to catch a glimpse of the elusive mountain.

The next stop on the tour was the Meiji shrine, dedicated to the Emperor Meiji, who wrested power back from the shoguns, moved the capital from Kyoto to Tokyo and began moving the country toward industrialization in the early 1900s. It is a beautiful shrine set in the midst of a small forested area right in the middle of Tokyo. The guide walked us through purifying ourselves at the ablutions station before heading in to make an offering to the gods. This involved clapping to get their attention and then tossing your money at a collection box in front of the shrine. In fact, the exterior of the shrine was covered in thousands and thousands of pockmarks where the faithful have gotten impatient on New Year’s Day and hurled their offerings at the shrine before the monks quite had the door open. Our group was held up at the parking lot while an impressive motorcade made its way past. After its departure, our guide was told by one of the security guards that we had just seen the Emperor and Empress leaving the shrine after paying homage to his ancestors. Our final stop on the tour was at the Imperial Palaces East Garden. The garden is inside the 15-foot-thick inner moat surrounding the 250-acre fortress that is currently the home of the Emperor and Empress. The gardens were breathtaking, and we learned they contained the five requisite elements for a traditional Japanese garden: a pond, a waterfall, a lantern, a rock and a bridge. This garden has always been open to the public, and both my mother and her sister thought they remembered coming there for walks as children.

On our quest to see the elusive Mt. Fuji, we decided to head to its base via the world-famous Shinkansen, or bullet train. Using his trusty and ever present GPS, my dad was able to determine that our fastest speed was 150 miles per hour, and yet it was the smoothest ride you could imagine. It didn?t even ripple the liquid in the drinks we had purchased at the station. We arrived in Hakone, which is the jumping off point for a masterfully engineered tourist jaunt around the base of Mt. Fuji. You can purchase an ironically named Hakone Free Pass for $50, which gives unlimited access to the route around the area. The first leg is aboard a miniature gauge railroad that winds its way up the side of a mountain. It makes multiple stops, and you can hop off and on for attractions like the Open Air Sculpture Museum.

At the end of the rail, we stopped in a tiny village called Gora and hopped a cable car that went straight up the side of the next mountain. This afforded excellent views of the fall foliage that could easily be mistaken for the East coast of the United States. The cable car landed at Souzan station, where you transfer to large ropeways that follow a suspended pass over the valleys – and closer to Mt. Fuji.

At the peak of this ropeway, we transferred to a much smaller car that took us down the face of the mountain facing Mt. Fuji and toward Lake Ashi. It is at this point in the trip you are supposed to have fabulous views of Fuji-san. We had fabulous views of cloud cover and the rancid sulphur mine the cable car crosses. We continued to be optimistic that eventually Mt. Fuji would poke its head out of the top of clouds because we still had a boat trip across the lake on a replica pirate ship, during which we could still have a sighting. Alas, the gods were against us, and we made this entire day-long circuit without so much as a peek at the famous mountain.

We hoped for more success the next day as we took the bullet train in the opposite direction in search of the town of Nikko and the Toshogu Shrine, completed in 1636 for the Shogun TokugawaIeyasu, who is said to be the greatest shogun and warlord who dedicated his life to conquering Japan. It is, in fact, his legacy on which the book and movie “Shogun” was based.

The temple complex covers several acres and is covered in thousands of cryptomeria trees, which are the giant redwoods of Japan. There are numerous shrines and temples within the complex, but my favorite was the stable that was covered in carvings of monkeys, most famously with a carving of the three famous ‘wise’ monkeys: “See No Evil, Hear No Evil, and Speak No Evil.” There is a common saying in Japan, “Do not say kekko (‘splendid’) until you have seen Nikko;” and for once, I would have to say the adage lives up to the hype.

Our final day in Japan was spent examining more of Tokyo. We woke at 5:00 a.m. to make our way to the world-famous Tsukiji Fish Market. Fish from around the world are flash frozen and flown to Tokyo for the largest fish auction in the world each day. It is highly likely that the tuna you have at your favorite sushi restaurant is flown in from this market. If you arrive before 6:00 a.m., you can watch the auction and then stick around while they tag, clean and deliver the enormous tuna which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. Porters deliver the giant fish to the buyer, and the buyer then spends the rest of the morning carving the fish with an assortment of knives that are nothing less than swords that must be large enough to maneuver around fish the size of a high school cheerleader.

After a breakfast of the freshest sushi on earth, we headed for a cruise up the Sumida River to the Asakusa Kannon Temple, and – shopping. Leading up to the Asakusa Temple is a street called the Nakamise shopping street. It is lined on both sides with more than 90 stores dating back hundreds of years. Today, they are small stalls that sell every possible Japanese tourist item one could hope for, from sake sets and tea sets to Japanese porcelain dolls and paper umbrellas and fans, all at surprisingly reasonable prices. The street runs right into the Asakusa Shrine and the Sensoji Temple, the oldest temple in Tokyo, built in 628. The entrance to both is through an enormous gate with a red Japanese lantern more than 30 feet tall.

Although we only had a few days to spend in this glorious country, with the ease of the bullet train and subway system, we were able to cover a lot of ground in a short period of time. We enjoyed a lot of the Japanese past, as well as just a bit of my family’s recent history, and managed to spread a little Christmas cheer along the way.

Speaking from the Heart

Thousands of Houstonians tune in to 104 KRBE every morning to catch a bit of Maria Todd’s sunshine. She’s got a contagious giggle, upbeat personality and quick wit that keep listeners smiling all through the a.m.

Maria began her radio career in Buffalo, N.Y., after taking a college internship at the local radio station. “My talents always lied with speaking and writing in school,” she reveals. Originally planning on being a journalist, she admits of her first experience on the air, “I fell in love with it.”

After working in New York for a couple of years with Sam Malone, KRBE brought the duo to the Houston airwaves 12 years ago. Following 14 years of on-air partnership, the Sam and Maria morning show split up earlier this year. Maria stayed on at KRBE, and the afternoon DJ, Atom Smasher, joined her for morning antics there. Listeners had to wait a couple of months to find Sam, but he’s recently taken over the reins at the 96.5 KHMX morning show.

After so many years of catching them as a team, many Houstonians were surprised by the sudden change. She insists that they remain friends (who laugh often about the rumors that circulate about the change), but that the split was simply a career decision. “He got a really great offer and left,” she divulges. “I got a really great offer, so I stayed.”

She enjoys the challenge that being a morning host provides. With a new co-host, she says there are new aspects to get used to. “Atom has a totally different personality – a little more laid back – and his sense of humor is different,” Maria says. “Both (Atom and Sam) are really funny – but in different ways. Now, it’s getting used to working with a different person, but my job still remains the same – be funny, deliver punch lines and play off the other person.” She likens her job to her favorite sport: baseball. “It’s like comedy batter,” she says. “The balls you get pitched are different, but you still have to hit them.” Known for her superior knowledge and everyday updates of celebrity gossip, Maria also devotes much of her time to area charities. Whether she’s donating her voice, money or abilities, this boisterous babe believes in giving back to her community.

Every year, she builds a team for the American Cancer Society’s Relay for Life to raise money for ACS’s education and outreach while celebrating cancer survivors. She and her team join others across the nation at school tracks and parks for a 24-hour walking and running relay. She has also started her own charity, the Pink Ribbon Pals, which raises money for the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation. This year, Maria is teaming up with La Strada and Winsor Jewelers for a fundraising brunch and silent auction – and, of course, the proceeds go to helping find a cure for breast cancer.

She is also very involved with The River. A not-for-profit organization that teaches visual and performing arts to disabled children and their siblings, this charity hits close to home with Maria. With a brother who is mildly handicapped, Maria remembers only one time that she was able to participate in a organized activity with her sibling. Very rarely are disabled students combined with able-bodied ones for extracurricular classes. The River offers this unique opportunity, and Maria has jumped on board. An avid Houston professional sports fan and constant face around town at events and fundraisers, Maria truly supports her community. She says that her favorite part about Houston is the people, adding, “It’s easy to get to know people here – I find most Houstonians friendly and polite.” Of course, Houstonians adore her. And why wouldn’t they? H

Houston’s Heritage

Located in the heart of downtown Houston, you will find Houston’s only outdoor, interactive historic museum and park: The Heritage Society. With nine authentically restored structures, a museum and a general store replica, there is something for everyone at this unique museum that offers a look into Houston’s past.

Forming the society
When the 1847 Kellum-Noble House, the oldest surviving brick house in Houston, was scheduled to be demolished in 1954, Houstonians Faith Bybee, Harvin Moore and Marie Phelps jumped into action and founded The Heritage Society. The newly formed group had one mission: to preserve the quickly disappearing Houston history for the education of future generations. Since saving that first house, The Heritage Society has added eight more historic structures to form the Historic House Tour you will find today in Sam Houston Park.

Walk through history
For a unique look into Houston’s history, you’ll want to tour the nine historic structures, which have been authentically restored to depict what life was like for early Houston settlers in frontier times. There are a total of eight houses, now including The Old Place, which is thought to be the oldest structure remaining in Harris County. The Yates House, built by a freed slave, reflected the newly found opportunities for black Houstonians. In addition to the homes is St. John Church, built in 1891 by German farmers, which still has the original altar, pulpit and cypress plank pews.

Look into Houston’s past
If you’re looking for a more traditional museum experience, visit the Museum of Houston Heritage at the corner of Bagby and Lamar on The Heritage Society campus. Exhibits include 19th century paintings by Houstonians, rare Texas furniture, cut glass on loan from June Adair of Brilliant American Cut Glass and various rotating exhibits. The Museum of Houston Heritage also boasts a replica of the Duncan General Store built in 1878 in Egypt, Texas. Children can play with toys popular in the 19th century or try churning butter during a tour of the store.

For rent
Need a place to hold your next party? The Heritage Society’s Tea Room (located in the Long Row Building) offers a unique space for weddings, receptions, dinner parties, cocktail parties, meetings and other special events. If you are looking for something a little closer to nature, the John B. Connally Plaza is also available and can be easily tented or left open. With a perfect view of Houston’s skyline and the open space of Sam Houston Park, your event is sure to be remembered.

Tour time
Visitors to Sam Houston Park may leisurely walk around the grounds, view the gardens and admire the exterior of the historic structures of The Heritage Museum. To step inside these magnificent structures, visitors must go on guided tours. The Heritage Society, 1100 Bagby, (713) 655-1912, www.heritagesociety.org H

Judi Holmes

An avid horse-enthusiast, Judi Holmes is pictured beside her beloved horse, Geste. She is not horsing around this December as she works hard on a number of charitable events, including the Winter Ball which has become one of Houston’s premier events over the past 19 years.

The Winter Ball is consistently a grand sell-out event year after year. It raises money for diseases most people consider almost unmentionable: Crohn’s and Colitis. These diseases are being treated much the same as cancer was in decades past, when it was referred to in whispers as, “the ‘C’ word.” Today, we have “the “CC” word,” or Crohn’s and Colitis: Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). The Winter Ball raises money for the Crohn’s &Colitis Foundation of America (CCFA) to find a cure and develop better treatments for these often unspoken of diseases.

There are many elegant surprises in store for guests attending the Winter Ball, dubbed Windows of Winter, on Jan. 21 at the Hilton Americas Ballroom. Guests will feel as though they’ve stepped inside a castle and are looking out its windows at winter scenes from throughout the world.

Houston is probably one of the best educated cities about IBDs, thanks to the Winter Ball and its honorees. The Winter Ball chooses 10 Women of Distinction, one Woman of Distinction Ambassador and two youth ambassadors for their work in philanthropy throughout the greater Houston area.

An Oklahoma girl, Judi Holmes says, “I never thought I’d cross the Red River, much less live on the other side. But now that I’m here, I can’t imagine living anywhere but Texas!” The middle child of three girls, Judi earned her M.B.A.; and for the next 14 years, she lived in Dallas managing her oil and gas investment banking firm. She then relocated to Houston after her marriage to Jack Holmes in 1993.

She now manages Gray Wolf Farms in Magnolia and Argyle, where she raises hunter jumper horses for competition throughout the country. Judi serves on the Board of Directors for the National Horse Show Association of America, the Washington International Horse Show and the Pin Oak Charity Horse Show. She also serves on the governing bodies for the equestrian teams of the United States Olympics.

Judi wears many philanthropic hats. She is currently President of the Salvation Army Women’s Auxiliary. During Katrina, it was the Women’s Auxiliary, specifically Mary Maxey at Judi’s request, that found the 60,000-square-foot warehouse in Pasadena to help evacuees. And Judi was down there in the sweltering heat with other Auxiliary volunteers, Sidney Faust, Carolyn Mann, Lilly Andress, Suzie Coneway and Joyce Standish to name a few, doing the grunt work of sorting the donations and helping families find what they needed.

She reveals that what she “loves about the Salvation Army is all the good things they do locally, nationally and even internationally. And, it’s faith based, which we’re proud of. The organization never discriminates. It takes care of those in need and asks questions later. They are there in the early stages of a disaster, and they are there when the dust settles.” On Dec. 13, Judi and her Army will become Secret Santas at a warehouse, “making the list, checking it twice, no discrimination between the naughty and nice,” as they wrap presents and stuff gift bags for needy children. Judi isn?t a princess; she is a hard worker with an excellent brain. Houston is lucky to have her. H

Take a Stand

At the National Council of Jewish Women, “Advocacy is all about action.” This organization works hard to shape public policies and legislation that affect women, children and families. Their national initiatives include the Strategies to Prevent Domestic Violence (StoP) and BenchMark, the NCJW campaign to save Roe and, thus, women’s right to reproductive choice.

Locally, the Houston chapter of the NCJW has many community service projects that aid various groups around town. They established the Aid to Victims of Domestic Abuse, which provides advocacy, legal representation, abusers intervention counseling and community education about domestic violence. The Home Instruction Program for Preschool Youngsters, or HIPPY, is a family-based literacy program that gives parents the essential tools to be the primary educators of 3- to 5-year-old children. These tools include activity packets, home visits and group meetings.

The Houston chapter also participates in the Meals-On-Wheels program, in which members deliver hot meals to the elderly and disabled throughout Houston. The Preparation for Adult Living/Lifelong Independence for Teens program provides birthday celebrations, graduation presents and wish list requests to formerly abused teens at Child Protective Services.

Through the Donny Workman Memorial Lunch Program, HIV-positive Houstonians who participate in an art outreach program are provided with lunch and art scholarships. Another scholarship program is the Lee K. Feine Scholarship Fund, which offers scholarships to third-year college students or graduate school students going into the fields of education, health and social welfare, or Judaic studies. With the Childcare Scholarship Fund, daycare assistance is provided for qualifying parents that work, go to school or are in job training.

This month, NCJW will host the 21st annual gala on Dec. 3 at the Marriott Westchase Houston. Raising funds for the important projects that NCJW undertakes, the Starlight Ball will offer dinner, dancing and a silent auction. It’s a great way to get involved, have fun and support a very worthy organization. H

Tree Time Traditions

Back before pre-lit artificial Christmas trees, families decorated their homes with real Christmas trees, ranging from cypress to fir to spruce. These natural beauties fill homes with the scents of the season that no artificial tree can duplicate. Your family can start a tradition of selecting a tree and cutting it down yourself at the Old Time Christmas Tree Farm in Spring.

At the farm, they provide saws, as well as measuring sticks, so all you need to bring is your family. You will hop on a hayride to the fields to choose your special tree, which shouldn’t be hard since the folks at the farm care for their trees all year to ensure you have the best from which to choose. After finding your perfect tree, you cut it down yourself and take it to the end of the row, where you both will hitch a ride back. The great folks at the farm will shake and bail your tree for you, so it is ready to go when you are.

If you’re not up to cutting down your own tree, the Old Time Christmas Tree Farm has you covered with live potted Leyland Cypress trees and pre-cut Fir and Spruce trees. You won’t want to forget the fresh wreaths and garland; they’ll make a wonderful addition to your holiday decor. (Tree stands are also available.)

Finding the perfect tree isn’t the only thing to do at the Old Time Christmas Tree Farm! You and your family are sure to enjoy the train ride and visiting the farm animals! The farm is complete with a covered pavilion, a playground and a giant slide, which is always a favorite with the kids! On the weekend, the slide calls to children of all ages to enjoy a thrill. With fun play areas for the kids, they are sure to have a blast.

You won’t want to leave without visiting Santa. At the Old Time Christmas Tree Farm, your kids can tell Santa all their dreams for Christmas morning. On Saturdays and Sundays, Santa will be available from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (He takes a lunch break from 12-1.) for visits. You can take a great holiday picture of your children with him, too. Picture prices are $5 each, if your camera is used, and $7.50 each, if the farm’s digital camera is used.

Don’t leave hungry, the Old Time Christmas Tree Farm also has delicious barbecue on the weekends and apple cider and hot cocoa for sale to seal the deal!

Old Time Christmas Tree Farm, 7632 Spring Cypress Road, (281) 370-9141, www.oldtimechristmastree.com H

Old School

She carries a wedding album, but her boyfriend doesn’t mind. Her yearbook lacks a single signature from former Bellaire High School classmates. She gladly shows friends the contents of her diary.

Peek into the satin books that Robin Goetz totes around town, and instead of paper pages, you’ll find her signature lipstick and other daily necessities. Embroidered with titles like “Our Wedding,” “Yearbook” and “Diary,” these rectangular clutches are a few of the Ex Libris items from femmesud, the new line from Goetz and co-founder Joanna Lipman. Made of Italian lambskin, styles like “The Birds and the Bees” are so unique that strangers stop carriers on the street to ask about their origins.

Goetz, a Houston native, discovered the practicality and prestige of a special bag when she moved to New York in 1995. “There, your bag is like your car – you take everything you need for the day,” she says. Goetz was working as a publicist in Manhattan, but she and Lipman ran a side business searching flea markets and estate sales for vintage accessories and selling their finds at boutiques across the country. Last year, they decided to fashion their own high-end styles.

“The idea for the bags came from a combination of wanting to make a well crafted bag and wanting to create something totally different, not another boring hobo,” Goetz says. “We wanted to create bags that are special and nostalgic while including modern aspects, like room for cell phones.” You can judge these limited-edition books by their covers, but open the “Fame &Fortune” book to find an oval mirror, a glossary of superstar terms and a coin purse embroidered “mad money.” Or flip through the “Datebook” to view a colorful calendar, to-do list and a stitched-in reminder of “don’t be late.”

“We have taken orders from people ages 14 to 65,” Goetz says. “You won’t see anything like them out there.”

The Joys of Japan

For my family, this past Thanksgiving was less about the pilgrims than it was about a pilgrimage. We traveled to Tokyo, Japan, in search of the house where my mother’s family lived in 1948 when she was only 2 years old.

My maternal grandfather was in the Counter-Intelligence Division and was stationed with MacArthur as part of the occupation forces. They lived in the part of town that had been rebuilt by the U.S. military; when my grandmother passed away this past year, we found the map of Tokyo that she used to navigate her stay. She had marked places of interest such as their house, the bowling alley, the grocery store and even “where Tojo hanged.” Unfortunately, my grandfather became terminally ill while in Japan and passed away in 1949; so, in attempt to get in touch with our heritage and their parents, my mother, her sister, my father and I took off for Tokyo armed with a 55-year-old map and a GPS system.

Having heard for years how expensive and unfriendly Japan was, not mentioning unpalatable in terms of the cuisine (other than what I anticipated was going to be exceptional sushi), I must admit our experience ranked among the top I have had in my extensive travels. Not only were the Japanese some of the friendliest people we had encountered, the food was fantastic and most things were less expensive than I’ve found in Houston. Once you broke through the stiff veneer of politeness and manners that ferociously grips these extraordinarily gracious people, they are effusive and bubbly with a wonderful sense of humor.

I must admit, however, that I had brought along a secret weapon that most tourists to Japan are lacking – I had Santa Claus. My father was working as the Santa Claus at the mall; and he brought along his Santa hat, white fluffy beard, and a belly that shakes like a bowl full of jelly. When we landed at Narita airport, he was literally chased down by a couple of teenage girls, yelling “Santa-san” and trying to catch a picture of him with their camera phones.

Narita is almost 45 minutes outside of Tokyo, and the airport shuttle bus is the cheapest and easiest way into town and to almost all local hotels and major train stations. The bus also offers a first glimpse at the rules governing public behavior that make living with 127 million other people on a tiny little island bearable. As the bus departed the airport, there was a recording giving the requisite warnings about standing up while the bus was moving, but it ended with an admonishment not to use your cell phone “because it annoys your neighbor.”

Oh, what I wouldn’t give to have a rule like that abided by while dining in some of Houston’s tonier restaurants. The astonishing thing was that everyone not only followed the cell phone rule on the bus, but almost everywhere else in Japan, including the subways and the trains. In fact, the quietness was almost eerie at times when you were standing on a crowded train platform or inside a packed subway. No one ever made eye contact or small talk on any of the public transportation, and our casual conversations on the train made us stick out more than towering 6 to 8 inches over the average citizen.

We took an organized half-day city tour our first morning in town, which hit all of the Tokyo high points. (Grayline, $45) Our first stop was the Tokyo Tower, which was designed as a replica of the Eiffel Tower with an unfortunate orange and white paint job. It does, however, offer exceptional views of Tokyo from its observation deck 250 meters in the air. You can even see Mt. Fuji from the top, if you are lucky enough to have it break through the cloud cover. We had no such luck, and in fact, spent our trip trying to catch a glimpse of the elusive mountain.

The next stop on the tour was the Meiji shrine, dedicated to the Emperor Meiji, who wrested power back from the shoguns, moved the capital from Kyoto to Tokyo and began moving the country toward industrialization in the early 1900s. It is a beautiful shrine set in the midst of a small forested area right in the middle of Tokyo. The guide walked us through purifying ourselves at the ablutions station before heading in to make an offering to the gods. This involved clapping to get their attention and then tossing your money at a collection box in front of the shrine. In fact, the exterior of the shrine was covered in thousands and thousands of pockmarks where the faithful have gotten impatient on New Year’s Day and hurled their offerings at the shrine before the monks quite had the door open. Our group was held up at the parking lot while an impressive motorcade made its way past. After its departure, our guide was told by one of the security guards that we had just seen the Emperor and Empress leaving the shrine after paying homage to his ancestors. Our final stop on the tour was at the Imperial Palaces East Garden. The garden is inside the 15-foot-thick inner moat surrounding the 250-acre fortress that is currently the home of the Emperor and Empress. The gardens were breathtaking, and we learned they contained the five requisite elements for a traditional Japanese garden: a pond, a waterfall, a lantern, a rock and a bridge. This garden has always been open to the public, and both my mother and her sister thought they remembered coming there for walks as children.

On our quest to see the elusive Mt. Fuji, we decided to head to its base via the world-famous Shinkansen, or bullet train. Using his trusty and ever present GPS, my dad was able to determine that our fastest speed was 150 miles per hour, and yet it was the smoothest ride you could imagine. It didn?t even ripple the liquid in the drinks we had purchased at the station. We arrived in Hakone, which is the jumping off point for a masterfully engineered tourist jaunt around the base of Mt. Fuji. You can purchase an ironically named Hakone Free Pass for $50, which gives unlimited access to the route around the area. The first leg is aboard a miniature gauge railroad that winds its way up the side of a mountain. It makes multiple stops, and you can hop off and on for attractions like the Open Air Sculpture Museum.

At the end of the rail, we stopped in a tiny village called Gora and hopped a cable car that went straight up the side of the next mountain. This afforded excellent views of the fall foliage that could easily be mistaken for the East coast of the United States. The cable car landed at Souzan station, where you transfer to large ropeways that follow a suspended pass over the valleys – and closer to Mt. Fuji.

At the peak of this ropeway, we transferred to a much smaller car that took us down the face of the mountain facing Mt. Fuji and toward Lake Ashi. It is at this point in the trip you are supposed to have fabulous views of Fuji-san. We had fabulous views of cloud cover and the rancid sulphur mine the cable car crosses. We continued to be optimistic that eventually Mt. Fuji would poke its head out of the top of clouds because we still had a boat trip across the lake on a replica pirate ship, during which we could still have a sighting. Alas, the gods were against us, and we made this entire day-long circuit without so much as a peek at the famous mountain.

We hoped for more success the next day as we took the bullet train in the opposite direction in search of the town of Nikko and the Toshogu Shrine, completed in 1636 for the Shogun TokugawaIeyasu, who is said to be the greatest shogun and warlord who dedicated his life to conquering Japan. It is, in fact, his legacy on which the book and movie “Shogun” was based.

The temple complex covers several acres and is covered in thousands of cryptomeria trees, which are the giant redwoods of Japan. There are numerous shrines and temples within the complex, but my favorite was the stable that was covered in carvings of monkeys, most famously with a carving of the three famous ‘wise’ monkeys: “See No Evil, Hear No Evil, and Speak No Evil.” There is a common saying in Japan, “Do not say kekko (‘splendid’) until you have seen Nikko;” and for once, I would have to say the adage lives up to the hype.

Our final day in Japan was spent examining more of Tokyo. We woke at 5:00 a.m. to make our way to the world-famous Tsukiji Fish Market. Fish from around the world are flash frozen and flown to Tokyo for the largest fish auction in the world each day. It is highly likely that the tuna you have at your favorite sushi restaurant is flown in from this market. If you arrive before 6:00 a.m., you can watch the auction and then stick around while they tag, clean and deliver the enormous tuna which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. Porters deliver the giant fish to the buyer, and the buyer then spends the rest of the morning carving the fish with an assortment of knives that are nothing less than swords that must be large enough to maneuver around fish the size of a high school cheerleader.

After a breakfast of the freshest sushi on earth, we headed for a cruise up the Sumida River to the Asakusa Kannon Temple, and – shopping. Leading up to the Asakusa Temple is a street called the Nakamise shopping street. It is lined on both sides with more than 90 stores dating back hundreds of years. Today, they are small stalls that sell every possible Japanese tourist item one could hope for, from sake sets and tea sets to Japanese porcelain dolls and paper umbrellas and fans, all at surprisingly reasonable prices. The street runs right into the Asakusa Shrine and the Sensoji Temple, the oldest temple in Tokyo, built in 628. The entrance to both is through an enormous gate with a red Japanese lantern more than 30 feet tall.

Although we only had a few days to spend in this glorious country, with the ease of the bullet train and subway system, we were able to cover a lot of ground in a short period of time. We enjoyed a lot of the Japanese past, as well as just a bit of my family’s recent history, and managed to spread a little Christmas cheer along the way.

Holiday Fun Houston Style

Houstonians have many holiday traditions, especially with the various art venues and holiday activities occurring all over town. While some traditions were established decades ago, others emerged in recent years. Whatever each family’s traditions may be, they serve to remind us the holiday season has arrived.

Don’t be a Scrooge
Each year, families all over Houston gather at the Alley Theatre to enjoy “A Christmas Carol,” the Charles Dickens favorite that reminds everyone of the true spirit of Christmas. Both young and old love this timeless story of miserly Ebenezer Scrooge’s night filled with the ghosts of Christmas past, present and future. Its universal message of compassion and love is a wonderful addition to any family’s holiday traditions. This year’s production, adapted by Michael Wilson, promises to be an amusing musical retelling of the enduring classic. This must-see production will run through Dec. 28 on the Hubbard Stage at the Alley Theatre. www.alleytheatre.org

Magical dreaming
For an evening of sweet delight during the holiday season, Houston families flock to the Houston Ballet for a breathtaking rendition of “The Nutcracker,” the beloved holiday favorite. Children and adults will cherish this classic tale of Clara and her nutcracker prince in the Land of Snow and the Kingdom of Sweets. The whole family is sure to be thrilled by the expansive special effects, including a “growing” Christmas tree, 200 pounds of falling “snow” and a cannon being fired on stage. Families can enjoy this holiday tradition through Dec. 26 at the Houston Ballet. www.houstonballet.org

Light up the season
A more recent family tradition for Houstonians is the Holiday Lights celebration in Hermann Park, where a mile of the park around the Mark Gibbs and Jesse H. Jones Reflection Pool and McGovern Lake is illuminated with holiday lights. This spectacular display has quickly become a family favorite with specially lit pedal boats, horse-drawn carriage rides and an array of nightly entertainment. This year’s event will also feature the first-ever Holiday Market in conjunction with the Holiday Lights, as well as a tent with wine, beer and cakes from Dessert Gallery. There will surely be something for the entire family at this holiday event, open through Dec. 26 for free at Hermann Park. www.hermannpark.org

On the boardwalk
Many local families make the short drive to Kemah for the perfect family outing, the Christmas Boat Lane Parade. This will be the 44th year of the spectacular parade that has lit up the night along the Kemah Boardwalk, much to the delight of spectators. With many unique holiday displays aboard more than 100 local boats, this one-of-a-kind parade is a holiday favorite that the whole family can enjoy. Locals covet the awards given out for Most Beautiful, Most Creative and Best Overall floats. Many families make a day of it along the coast and visit the many restaurants and shops along the Kemah boardwalk. This year’s event will take place Dec. 10 at 7 p.m. (the best view is from the boardwalk!) www.kemah.net

Sounds of the season
To experience the many sounds of the holidays, countless Houston families turn to the Houston Symphony. Each year, the symphony provides holiday music to set the mood for the season. This year is no different, with the Houston Symphony’s Holidays Around the World, featuring holiday musical traditions from the Ukraine to Israel, Germany to Mexico, and let’s not forget our own holiday music from the United States. “Only Santa covers this much ground in a single hour!” The Houston Symphony always delivers wonderful holiday music that gets us in the spirit of the season! www.houstonsymphony.org

Old time shopping
For an old-fashioned holiday shopping experience, locals flock to Old Town Spring during Down Home Christmas. With the many shops fully decorated with holiday cheer and specials galore, this is a shopping experience Houston families treat themselves to year after year. Houstonians of all ages love to wander around this quaint market town to find the perfect gift for that someone special (and the rest of the family, too!). Whether you’re shopping for a wine enthusiast or a cowboy, the kids or your pets; Old Town Spring has got a shop for you. www.oldtownspring.com

Illuminate the streets
Each year, Houstonians fill the streets for the Woodland Heights premiere annual event, Lights in the Heights. Hundreds of luminaria line the route, which travels down Bayland Avenue and Highland Street. Visitors are welcomed with cookies, punch and wassail as the entire neighborhood comes out to greet them. The kids love the visit from Santa; he usually arrives around 7 p.m. on the Norhill Street Esplanade. Another crowd favorite is the carriage rides, available along the route (there is a fee involved). Carolers and live musicians can be found on the streets to provide the songs of the season. This holiday tradition is complete with festive T-shirts for sale to help fund the event. This year’s celebration takes place on Saturday, Dec. 10 from 6-9 p.m. www.woodland-heights.org

On the big screen
The holiday films “A Christmas Story” and “White Christmas” are popular holiday traditions with Houstonians. This year, Houston families can experience these holiday favorites on the big screen at Miller Outdoor Theatre (for free!). The comedic “A Christmas Story” will be presented on Dec. 9-10, at 7 p.m. with the young boy’s dreams of getting a Red Ryder BB gun on Christmas morning. The musical heart-warmer “White Christmas,” featuring Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye and Rosemary Cloony, can be seen Dec. 16-17 at 7 p.m. www.milleroutdoortheatre.com

Sing, dance and be merry
For local families seeking fun holiday entertainment, turn to Revels! This year?s event, entitled “The Christmas Revels 2005 – A French Canadian Celebration,” follows voyagers traveling through French Canada trying to get home for the winter solstice celebration. The performance blends song, dance and drama to create an exceptional event in which the audience can participate by singing along and dancing (sometimes audience members become on-stage participants). The performance will also feature the traditional Morris dances, Mummers play and a dedication performance of “The Lord of the Dance.” This year’s event will take place on Dec. 10, 11, 17 and 18 at Moore’s Opera House. www.revelshou.com

Heritage during the holidays
From Dec. 26-Jan. 1, Houstonians celebrate African American cultural festival, Kwanza, throughout the town. This seven-day festival begins with a gathering to celebrate unity within the community on Dec. 26 and continues with area celebrations throughout Houston. Each day is dedicated to a specific principle: unity, self-determination, collective work, responsibility, cooperative economics, creativity and faith. One candle on a seven-branched candelabrum is lit every day; gifts are given; and there is a karamu, or African feast. Each celebration will feature an African market and children’s Kwanzaa activities. (713) 521-0629, www.shape.org

Lighten up
Though it’s a more recent tradition, the Moody Gardens Festival of Lights is quickly becoming a beloved holiday event. This is the fourth year Moody Gardens will come alive with more than a million lights throughout the grounds. The outdoor ice rink gives kids and adults alike the chance to put on a pair of skates and slide across the ice. (A rarity in Texas!) Local choirs and bands delight visitors with holiday music while they enjoy the beautiful scenery. www.moodygardens.com